Beggining of our third week into dog to dog aggression rehab..Day 15

Day 15....opening day for the third week of our pack structure training program on sloving dog to dog aggression. Nero, my Malinois male is back to continue his obedience and protection training, from today. He came back very strong and full of drive!!! We carry on our pack structure training program and after each protection trainings, Nero will go on walks with Tyson. It will help him to remain his position within the pack, because during training the dog's self confidence grows. In the past, that was one of the element for creating fights. So we gotta keep it under control.

Rehab Day 14

Day 14...yesterday we completed second week of our pack structure training program on solving dog to dog aggression issues. It was a pretty tough journey with plenty of challenges along the way. Both mentally and physically exhausting, but worth it's every moment. The long hours spent on our daily walks have brought us together. We slowly starting to co-exist as a pack, where each member becoming to understand and respect his position within the hierarchy. I'm starting to see more respect from them towards me. Seems like they have been asking permissions for almost everything now. What a good boys!!! It has also made them more focused on me during obedience and protection work. So with that said, none of the needed working drive has been taking away from them, as many people are worried about when it comes down to rehabilitation of aggressive working or competition dogs.

Before we started our mission, the relationship between my two males was very tense. They couldn't be or do anything together. They would fight through crates in the house as well as in the car. Getting the slightest chance to get closer to each others, they would launched attacks and fought to blood. Tyson, my male Labrador would refuse to eat and at times refuse to come out of his crate. At that point I have decided to sent Tyson to K9 rehab centre, where his fears and stress could be cured by spending time with the balanced pack of dogs and become to be himslef again. He stayed for almost 3 weeks. In the meantime, I have undergone pack structure training program alone with my Malinois and made few visits to the centre, where he would be introduced to the pack as well as to Tyson. Once I started to see changes in both dogs, I brought Tyson back home and from day one I trained them according to my pack structure program.

Two weeks later, I'm proud to say, that many issues of the past are slowly becoming to change.They are walking together, eating together, travel in the car together, waiting at the doors together before being called in or out, are relaxed in their crates and both are able to interact with me during play. From this point on, we still have a long journey ahead of us, but we have set off to a good start.

FURminator deShedding Tool

FURminator deShedding Dog Tools address the number one complaint of dog owners, SHEDDING. FURminator for dogs will gently
comb and pull shedding dog hair from your dog's coat. It
doesn't cut, it removes the loose, dead, undercoat hair that's the underlying source of a shedding , allergies and cleanliness problems. FURminator deShedding dog brushes help reduce and remove shedding dog hair leaving your dog with a great looking coat and your furniture hair free.  Deshedding FURminator Tool come in a variety of options including size of breed and length of
coat.

Your pet's lustrous coat is an indication of the superb care you provide for them. By reducing shedding by up to 90%, the FURminator deShedding Tool enables you to share your home with your beloved pet, without surrendering it to pet hair. Reduces the amount of airborne elements that cause allergic reactions in many people. For use with long or short coats

Short Haired Brush

• For short hair dogs 21-50 lbs
  
• 2.65" deShedding edge Designed for coats shorter than 2 inches
  
• Reduces shedding up to 90%
  
• Stainless steel deShedding edge reaches deep beneath your dog's short topcoat to gently remove undercoat and loose hair.
  
• Used and recommended by veterinarians and professional groomers.
  
• FURejector™ button cleans and removes loose hair from the tool with ease.
  
• Guaranteed to reduce shedding better than any brush, rake or comb.
  
• Designed by a groomer for professional results.
  
• Patented technologies.
  
  
  

  
  Long Haired Brush
  

• For long hair dogs 21-50 lbs
  
• 2.65" deShedding edge Designed for coats longer than 2 inches
  
• Reduces shedding up to 90%
  
• Stainless steel deShedding edge reaches deep beneath your dog's long topcoat to gently remove undercoat and loose hair.
  
• Used and recommended by veterinarians and professional groomers.
  
• FURejector™ button cleans and removes loose hair from the tool with ease.
  
• Guaranteed to reduce shedding better than any brush, rake or comb.
  
• Designed by a groomer for professional results.
  
• Patented technologies.
  

Older version of FURminator

**The FURminator deShedding tool has a fine toothed precision deShedding edge and great care should be take to protect the teeth. Replace the protective cover when not in use. FURminator Inc. does not guarantee against broken teeth on the tool.

Dog Breeds NOT Recommended for the FURminator deShedding Tool:

American Water Spaniel, Bedlington Terrier, Bichon Frise, Bolognese, Chinese Crested, Coton de Tulear, Curly-Coated Retriever, Dandie Dinmont, Havanese, Irish Water Spaniel, Kerry Blue Terrier, Komondor, Lowchen, Maltese, Poodle, Portoguese Water Dog, Puli, Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier

Dog Breeds Recommended for the FURminator deShedding Tool:
(Some breeds have coat textures that vary between individual dogs. These breeds are noted with an *. Not all dogs in these breeds shed. If your dog sheds, the FURminator deShedding Tool will work on your dog.)

Affenpinscher, Afghan Hound, Airedale Terrier, Akita, Alaskan Klee Kai, Alaskean Malamute, American Bulldog*, American Eskimo Dog, American Pit Bull Terrier*, American Staffordshire Terrier, Anatolian Shepherd, Australian Cattle Dog, Australian Kelpie, Australian Shepherd Dog, Australian Terrier, Balkan Hound, Basenji, Basset Hound, Beagle*, Bearded Collie, Belgian Griffon, Belgian Malinois, Belgian Shepherd, Belgian Tervueren, Bernese Mountain Dog, Black and Tan Coonhound*, Black Russian Terrier, Bloodhound, Blue Heeler, Border Collie, Border Terrier, Boston Terrier*, Bouvier des Flandres, Boxer*, Borzoi, Briard, Brittany Spaniel, Brussels Griffon, Bull Terrier*, Bullmastiff, Cairn Terrier, Canaan Dog, Cane Corso, Cardigan Welsh Cogi, Catahula Leopard Dog, Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, Chesapeake Bay Retriever, Chihuahua*, Chinook, Chow Chow, Clumber Spaniel, Cocker Spaniel, Collie, Dachshund*, Dalmation*, Deerhound, Doberman Pinscher*, English Bulldog*, English Foxhound*, English Mastiff, English Setter, English Springer Spaniel, English Toy Spaniel, Eskimo Dog, Field Spaniel, Finnish Spitz, Flat-Coated Retriever, French Bulldog*, French Mastiff, German Shepherd Dog, German Shorthair Pointer*, German Wirehaired Pointer, Giant Schnauzer, Glen of Imaal Terrier, Golden Tertriever, Gordon Setter, Great Dane, Great Pyrenees, Greater Swiss Mountain Dog, Greyhound, Harrier Beagle, Ibizan Hound*, Irish Setter, Irish Terrier, Irish Wolfhound, Italian Greyhound*, Jack Russell Terrier, Japanese Chin*, Japanese Spitz, Kai Dog, Keeshond, Kuvasz, Labrador Retriever, Lakeland Terrier, Leonberger, Lhasa Apso*, Manchester Terrier, Miniature Bull Terrier, Miniature Pinscher, Miniature Schnauzer, Munsterlander, Neapolitan Mastiff, Newfoundland, Norfolk Terrier, Norwegian Elkhound, Norwich Terrier, Nova Scotia Duck-Tolling Retriever, Old English Sheepdog, Otterhound, Papillion, Parson Jack Russell Terrier, Pekingese*, Pembroke Welsh Corgi, Petit Basset Griffon Vandeen, Pharaoh Hound*, Polish Lowland Sheepdog, Pomeranian, Pug, Rat Terrier, Rhodesian Ridgeback, Rottweiler, Saint Bernard, Saluki, Samoyed, Schipperke, Scottish Deerhound, Scottish Terrier, Sealyham Terrier, Shar Pei*, Shetland Sheepdog, Shiba Inu, Shih Tzu*, Siberian Husky, Silky Terrier*, Skye Terrier, Spinone Italian, Smooth Fox Terrier*, Staffordshire Bull Terrier*, Standard Schnauzer, Susex Spaniel, Tibetan Mastiff, Tibetan Spaniel, Tibetan Terrier, Toy Fox Terrier*, Vizsla, Weimaraner, Welsh Springer Spaniel, Welsh Terrier, West Highland White Terrier, Whippet, Wire Fox Terrier, Wirehaired Pointing Griffon, Yorkshire Terrier*

 

What is a Prong Collar

A Prong collar (also called pinch collar) is a series of chain links with open ends turned towards the dog's neck so that, when the collar is tightened, it pinches the naturally loose skin around the dog's neck. When properly adjusted and used, it startles the dog and gives a sharp correction, but does not puncture the dog's skin, as many people believe. And while it looks painful, it's actually less harmful to the dog than a slip or choke collar. Opponents argue that pain is never a good default way in which to train animals. Some dogs are nearly oblivious to leash corrections of any kind, but the prong collar might make such dogs pay more attention than milder collar types. The advantage of the prong collar over the choke collar is that the circumference is limited so that it is impossible to compress the animal's throat. Another advantage is that any pressure on the dog's neck is spread out over a larger area than with most buckle collars, and with all choke chains.

  Correct Use of a Prong Collar 

Most people are misguided in the use of the Prong collar and how it should be worn. A majority of owners will secure the Prong collar loosely under the flat collar of the dog and believe this is the best fitting. Unfortunately, they are very wrong and can cause serious tracheal and neck problems for their dogs.

• Prong collars are ordered by size (small, medium, large and extra large. They all come in a standard length which is adjusted to fit the neck of the dog by removing or adding links to the collar.
  
• Prong collars are meant to be put on and taken off before and after daily training sessions. They should never be left on the dog all the time. That is what the flat collar is meant for.
  
• A snug fit is mandatory! Enough links need to be removed so that the collar fits snug.
  
• Positioning of the Prong collar is crucial. The collar should sit right behind the ears and up under the jaw. Not down at the shoulders.
  
• Rings on the Prong collar should be positioned ideally for training. Links should always remain under the dog's chin for more effective training.
  
• Attach the leash to the dead-ring for normal dog training. The dead-ring is when the trainer attaches the leash to both the swivel ring and the stationary ring. This will allow the Prong collar to remain the same size when training and provide less force.
  
• Attach leash to the live-ring for more stubborn dogs. The live ring is the swivel ring alone and allows the Prong collar to tighten further on the dog when training. Do not use the live-ring method of training unless you have first tried the dead-ring method.
  

When a prong collar is used in training, the handler must realize that a dog who required a level 10 correction before will now, with a prong, probably require a level 2 or level 3 correction. It means that a strong dog that had so much drive and was too much for a small person to handle is now easily controllable without a lot of effort. 

New handlers must learn to read their dogs to avoid the same level of correction with the prong that they did with a choke collar. This is unfair to the dog.

I would not recommend the use of prong collar on puppies younger than 5 months.

Great to use in obedience training as well as teaching your dog not to pull on leash.