Beggining of our third week into dog to dog aggression rehab..Day 15

Day 15....opening day for the third week of our pack structure training program on sloving dog to dog aggression. Nero, my Malinois male is back to continue his obedience and protection training, from today. He came back very strong and full of drive!!! We carry on our pack structure training program and after each protection trainings, Nero will go on walks with Tyson. It will help him to remain his position within the pack, because during training the dog's self confidence grows. In the past, that was one of the element for creating fights. So we gotta keep it under control.

Rehab Day 14

Day 14...yesterday we completed second week of our pack structure training program on solving dog to dog aggression issues. It was a pretty tough journey with plenty of challenges along the way. Both mentally and physically exhausting, but worth it's every moment. The long hours spent on our daily walks have brought us together. We slowly starting to co-exist as a pack, where each member becoming to understand and respect his position within the hierarchy. I'm starting to see more respect from them towards me. Seems like they have been asking permissions for almost everything now. What a good boys!!! It has also made them more focused on me during obedience and protection work. So with that said, none of the needed working drive has been taking away from them, as many people are worried about when it comes down to rehabilitation of aggressive working or competition dogs.

Before we started our mission, the relationship between my two males was very tense. They couldn't be or do anything together. They would fight through crates in the house as well as in the car. Getting the slightest chance to get closer to each others, they would launched attacks and fought to blood. Tyson, my male Labrador would refuse to eat and at times refuse to come out of his crate. At that point I have decided to sent Tyson to K9 rehab centre, where his fears and stress could be cured by spending time with the balanced pack of dogs and become to be himslef again. He stayed for almost 3 weeks. In the meantime, I have undergone pack structure training program alone with my Malinois and made few visits to the centre, where he would be introduced to the pack as well as to Tyson. Once I started to see changes in both dogs, I brought Tyson back home and from day one I trained them according to my pack structure program.

Two weeks later, I'm proud to say, that many issues of the past are slowly becoming to change.They are walking together, eating together, travel in the car together, waiting at the doors together before being called in or out, are relaxed in their crates and both are able to interact with me during play. From this point on, we still have a long journey ahead of us, but we have set off to a good start.

FURminator deShedding Tool

FURminator deShedding Dog Tools address the number one complaint of dog owners, SHEDDING. FURminator for dogs will gently
comb and pull shedding dog hair from your dog's coat. It
doesn't cut, it removes the loose, dead, undercoat hair that's the underlying source of a shedding , allergies and cleanliness problems. FURminator deShedding dog brushes help reduce and remove shedding dog hair leaving your dog with a great looking coat and your furniture hair free.  Deshedding FURminator Tool come in a variety of options including size of breed and length of
coat.

Your pet's lustrous coat is an indication of the superb care you provide for them. By reducing shedding by up to 90%, the FURminator deShedding Tool enables you to share your home with your beloved pet, without surrendering it to pet hair. Reduces the amount of airborne elements that cause allergic reactions in many people. For use with long or short coats

Short Haired Brush

• For short hair dogs 21-50 lbs
  
• 2.65" deShedding edge Designed for coats shorter than 2 inches
  
• Reduces shedding up to 90%
  
• Stainless steel deShedding edge reaches deep beneath your dog's short topcoat to gently remove undercoat and loose hair.
  
• Used and recommended by veterinarians and professional groomers.
  
• FURejector™ button cleans and removes loose hair from the tool with ease.
  
• Guaranteed to reduce shedding better than any brush, rake or comb.
  
• Designed by a groomer for professional results.
  
• Patented technologies.
  
  
  

  
  Long Haired Brush
  

• For long hair dogs 21-50 lbs
  
• 2.65" deShedding edge Designed for coats longer than 2 inches
  
• Reduces shedding up to 90%
  
• Stainless steel deShedding edge reaches deep beneath your dog's long topcoat to gently remove undercoat and loose hair.
  
• Used and recommended by veterinarians and professional groomers.
  
• FURejector™ button cleans and removes loose hair from the tool with ease.
  
• Guaranteed to reduce shedding better than any brush, rake or comb.
  
• Designed by a groomer for professional results.
  
• Patented technologies.
  

Older version of FURminator

**The FURminator deShedding tool has a fine toothed precision deShedding edge and great care should be take to protect the teeth. Replace the protective cover when not in use. FURminator Inc. does not guarantee against broken teeth on the tool.

Dog Breeds NOT Recommended for the FURminator deShedding Tool:

American Water Spaniel, Bedlington Terrier, Bichon Frise, Bolognese, Chinese Crested, Coton de Tulear, Curly-Coated Retriever, Dandie Dinmont, Havanese, Irish Water Spaniel, Kerry Blue Terrier, Komondor, Lowchen, Maltese, Poodle, Portoguese Water Dog, Puli, Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier

Dog Breeds Recommended for the FURminator deShedding Tool:
(Some breeds have coat textures that vary between individual dogs. These breeds are noted with an *. Not all dogs in these breeds shed. If your dog sheds, the FURminator deShedding Tool will work on your dog.)

Affenpinscher, Afghan Hound, Airedale Terrier, Akita, Alaskan Klee Kai, Alaskean Malamute, American Bulldog*, American Eskimo Dog, American Pit Bull Terrier*, American Staffordshire Terrier, Anatolian Shepherd, Australian Cattle Dog, Australian Kelpie, Australian Shepherd Dog, Australian Terrier, Balkan Hound, Basenji, Basset Hound, Beagle*, Bearded Collie, Belgian Griffon, Belgian Malinois, Belgian Shepherd, Belgian Tervueren, Bernese Mountain Dog, Black and Tan Coonhound*, Black Russian Terrier, Bloodhound, Blue Heeler, Border Collie, Border Terrier, Boston Terrier*, Bouvier des Flandres, Boxer*, Borzoi, Briard, Brittany Spaniel, Brussels Griffon, Bull Terrier*, Bullmastiff, Cairn Terrier, Canaan Dog, Cane Corso, Cardigan Welsh Cogi, Catahula Leopard Dog, Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, Chesapeake Bay Retriever, Chihuahua*, Chinook, Chow Chow, Clumber Spaniel, Cocker Spaniel, Collie, Dachshund*, Dalmation*, Deerhound, Doberman Pinscher*, English Bulldog*, English Foxhound*, English Mastiff, English Setter, English Springer Spaniel, English Toy Spaniel, Eskimo Dog, Field Spaniel, Finnish Spitz, Flat-Coated Retriever, French Bulldog*, French Mastiff, German Shepherd Dog, German Shorthair Pointer*, German Wirehaired Pointer, Giant Schnauzer, Glen of Imaal Terrier, Golden Tertriever, Gordon Setter, Great Dane, Great Pyrenees, Greater Swiss Mountain Dog, Greyhound, Harrier Beagle, Ibizan Hound*, Irish Setter, Irish Terrier, Irish Wolfhound, Italian Greyhound*, Jack Russell Terrier, Japanese Chin*, Japanese Spitz, Kai Dog, Keeshond, Kuvasz, Labrador Retriever, Lakeland Terrier, Leonberger, Lhasa Apso*, Manchester Terrier, Miniature Bull Terrier, Miniature Pinscher, Miniature Schnauzer, Munsterlander, Neapolitan Mastiff, Newfoundland, Norfolk Terrier, Norwegian Elkhound, Norwich Terrier, Nova Scotia Duck-Tolling Retriever, Old English Sheepdog, Otterhound, Papillion, Parson Jack Russell Terrier, Pekingese*, Pembroke Welsh Corgi, Petit Basset Griffon Vandeen, Pharaoh Hound*, Polish Lowland Sheepdog, Pomeranian, Pug, Rat Terrier, Rhodesian Ridgeback, Rottweiler, Saint Bernard, Saluki, Samoyed, Schipperke, Scottish Deerhound, Scottish Terrier, Sealyham Terrier, Shar Pei*, Shetland Sheepdog, Shiba Inu, Shih Tzu*, Siberian Husky, Silky Terrier*, Skye Terrier, Spinone Italian, Smooth Fox Terrier*, Staffordshire Bull Terrier*, Standard Schnauzer, Susex Spaniel, Tibetan Mastiff, Tibetan Spaniel, Tibetan Terrier, Toy Fox Terrier*, Vizsla, Weimaraner, Welsh Springer Spaniel, Welsh Terrier, West Highland White Terrier, Whippet, Wire Fox Terrier, Wirehaired Pointing Griffon, Yorkshire Terrier*

 

What is a Prong Collar

A Prong collar (also called pinch collar) is a series of chain links with open ends turned towards the dog's neck so that, when the collar is tightened, it pinches the naturally loose skin around the dog's neck. When properly adjusted and used, it startles the dog and gives a sharp correction, but does not puncture the dog's skin, as many people believe. And while it looks painful, it's actually less harmful to the dog than a slip or choke collar. Opponents argue that pain is never a good default way in which to train animals. Some dogs are nearly oblivious to leash corrections of any kind, but the prong collar might make such dogs pay more attention than milder collar types. The advantage of the prong collar over the choke collar is that the circumference is limited so that it is impossible to compress the animal's throat. Another advantage is that any pressure on the dog's neck is spread out over a larger area than with most buckle collars, and with all choke chains.

  Correct Use of a Prong Collar 

Most people are misguided in the use of the Prong collar and how it should be worn. A majority of owners will secure the Prong collar loosely under the flat collar of the dog and believe this is the best fitting. Unfortunately, they are very wrong and can cause serious tracheal and neck problems for their dogs.

• Prong collars are ordered by size (small, medium, large and extra large. They all come in a standard length which is adjusted to fit the neck of the dog by removing or adding links to the collar.
  
• Prong collars are meant to be put on and taken off before and after daily training sessions. They should never be left on the dog all the time. That is what the flat collar is meant for.
  
• A snug fit is mandatory! Enough links need to be removed so that the collar fits snug.
  
• Positioning of the Prong collar is crucial. The collar should sit right behind the ears and up under the jaw. Not down at the shoulders.
  
• Rings on the Prong collar should be positioned ideally for training. Links should always remain under the dog's chin for more effective training.
  
• Attach the leash to the dead-ring for normal dog training. The dead-ring is when the trainer attaches the leash to both the swivel ring and the stationary ring. This will allow the Prong collar to remain the same size when training and provide less force.
  
• Attach leash to the live-ring for more stubborn dogs. The live ring is the swivel ring alone and allows the Prong collar to tighten further on the dog when training. Do not use the live-ring method of training unless you have first tried the dead-ring method.
  

When a prong collar is used in training, the handler must realize that a dog who required a level 10 correction before will now, with a prong, probably require a level 2 or level 3 correction. It means that a strong dog that had so much drive and was too much for a small person to handle is now easily controllable without a lot of effort. 

New handlers must learn to read their dogs to avoid the same level of correction with the prong that they did with a choke collar. This is unfair to the dog.

I would not recommend the use of prong collar on puppies younger than 5 months.

Great to use in obedience training as well as teaching your dog not to pull on leash.

PRONG COLLARS

Herm Sprenger Chrome Prong Collars

With Chrome Plated prong collars, you can add and remove links to fit your dog's neck.

Over time a chrome plated collar can rust.

  Herm Sprenger Stainless Steel Prong Collars

Up to 4 prong links can be taken out of a collar to make a better fit or additional links may be added.

These high quality stainless steel collars are going to last many, many years longer than a chrome plated collar. They will never rust.

How to Fit a Prong Collar

Prong collars are ordered by size (small, medium, large or extra large).

They all come in a standard length which is adjusted to fit the neck of the dog by removing or adding links to the collar.

These collars are meant to be put on and taken off before and after daily training sessions.

They are designed to be put on and taken off by unhooking links and actually unsnapping the collar from around the neck.

The right way to unhook a collar is to pinch one of the links and pull it apart. Taking the collar off is always easier than putting it back on.

Correct Fitting of the Prong Collar on a Malinois

The correct position for a prong collar is to sit right behind the ears and up under

 the jaw line like you see in the photo above.

Incorrect Fitting of the Prong Collar on a Malinois

The collar is too loose and riding too far down on the dog's neck. It should be up where I have drawn the red line.

Adding and Removing Links

  Prong collars are designed to be put on and taken off by unhooking links and actually unsnapping the collar from around the neck. Never slipped over the dog's head and moved down to his neck.

The right way to unhook a collar is to pinch one of the links and pull it apart. Taking the collar off is always easier than putting it back on.

Leash on Live Ring

On the live-ring the correction is amplified because more slack is taken out of the collar when the correction is given and the leash is popped. The live-ring is used if a dog does not respond well to the snap being placed on the dead-ring.

Leash on Dead Ring

The first time a prong is used on a dog the snap should be on the dead-ring. When a correction is applied and the leash is attached to the dead-ring the correction will not take as much slack out of the collar as when it is attached to the live-ring.

Safety Feature

Always wear a backup collar on your dog while wearing a prong collar. For best results wear along with the dominant dog collar and attach the leash the both of them.

Dominant Dog Collar

This collar is made for use on dominant and aggressive dogs.

Instead of giving a dog painful correction it takes the air away from the dog.

 

This collar was designed to be used on handler aggressive or dog aggressive dogs. Using a pinch collar on these kinds of dogs often over stimulates the dog and makes them hectic and more aggressive. Using a dominant dog collar correctly on the same dog takes drive and fight out of the dog.

How to Fit the Dominant Dog Collar

Measure the dog's neck just under the jaw and right behind the ears. Use a string for the measuring. The string should be VERY SNUG. It should be as tight a measurement as you can get it. It is VERY IMPORTANT that you have the tightest possible measurement located at the top of the neck directly below the jaw line. Order a collar that is the exact length of that measurement.

If the dog's neck size is in between two sizes, then order a collar that is the next size smaller. For example if your string size is 13 1/2 inches then order a 13 inch size collar. If the string that goes around your dog's neck is 14 inches then you order a 14 inch dominant dog collar. DO NOT ADD INCHES FOR SLACK! There will be a small slack due the hardware used on the collar.

It is VERY IMPORTANT to get a tight, snug measurement. There should be no extra room at all between the dog's neck and the tape measure or string. When these collars are properly fit they will stay in place and not slip down the neck. If you start add inches to the string you will get a collar that is the wrong size. It will not stay in place and it won't be effective in training.

Correct Fitting

The proper fit insure better training . The less movement in the handlers arm the faster the trainer is going to be able to take the slack out of the collar.

 

Incorrect Fitting

Example of a dominant dog collar that is not fit properly. It has too much slack and will not stay in the correct place on the dog's neck - which is right up under the jaw bone.

 

How to Use Dominant Dog Collar

Applying upward pressure with the leash (to take all slack out of the collar) on softer temperament dogs is often enough to stop unwanted aggression. They quickly learn that you have complete control over them.

With more aggressive dogs the handler should lift the dog's front feet off the ground for a few seconds until the dog settles down from his aggressive rage. This also tells the dog that you will not tolerate his behaviour.

Most aggressive dogs only need to have their front feet lifted off the ground a few times to realize that you can take their air away when you want. This is not painful for the dog.

Colours may vary. In the UK this collar is called the American Cord Collar.

British Slip Lead

This lead is a leash and collar in one

Lead is made of strong multifilament polypropylene roping and solid braid webbing is waterproof, colourfast and shows no performance-loss when wet. A UV coating protects against decay and fading.

Slip leads are perfect and easy tool, to be used on any type of dog breeds for daily walks. The neck size can be adjusted to fit any size dog, which allows the collar to sit right behind the dog’s ears and gives the handler constant control over the dog. Great for handling hyper pet dogs, however, not the best tool for correcting leash pulling, as many believe. When dealing with aggressive and dominant dogs of larger breeds, I would not recommend use of this lead. Colours may vary.

Rehab Day 13

Day 13..the dogs were really tired this morning, so I called off any excercises. We all rested most of the day, and just went for a long walk this evening. Dinner time was very quiet tonight. Now the males are snuggled up in their crates and resting!


P.S...tonight both males came very close to each others, while sniffing at the same spot together.. that's first time in a long time...:)

Rehab Day 12

Day 12...I had a good rest last night, so this morning I woke up full of energy and strenght! I decided to take them, for the first time in almost two weeks of their pack structure training program, to one of the biggest and busiest dog park, here in North London area.  We started off with 30 minutes walk around the block, which helps to bring the level of excitement in the dogs down. Excitement many times leads to loss of control and therefore escalates into aggression. So it's very imporatnt to have full control over the dogs excited state of mind. This could be achieved through a structured walk with the handler! On this short walk, the dogs also get the time to empty themselfs, so once put in the vehicle they will be calmer during the journey!

Both did great in the car, not a single signs of tension or aggression! Very well done, boys! The walk at the park was rather challenging for both, me and the dogs! We met lots of dogs along the way, and none of my two males have shown any aggression towards them at all. For now, I don't allow them to interact with any strange dogs! When dogs start to aproach us, I keep walking, never stop to give them the opportunity to greet my dogs. This usually makes the dogs pass by, or come from behind and take a sniff at the rear! Most dogs won't mind being checked from behind. In dominant and aggressive dogs it usually creates tension followed by an attack on the other dog. However, as long as you keep on moving, you blocking the dogs mind from going forward into a flight mode! With dog aggressive dogs the worse thing to do, it's allow it to make straight face to face contact with another dog, or letting another dog to sniff at his rear, while both dogs being static. It only takes seconds, for your dog to get fixated on the other and before you notice it, it's already too late! Any form of correction from this point on, it's pretty much useless. Correcting the dog once the fight it's over, doesn't teach the dog not to fight in the future, instead it's making him believe, that he didn't fight hard enough. That's the reason for why, I'm avoiding this type of contact with my dogs, for now!

Apart from the long walk, I did allowed them to swim, which is another off leash activity this week! During the play, they were not praised! After swimming they also played some frisbee games and once finished, they were let to rest and then muzzled, put on lead and walked back to the car! Journey home was very quiet! Both were sleeping!

Dinner time was great once again..and because, they were on such a good behaviour today, I gave them raw bones reward after dinner. I watched them closely, while they were eating it. To my surprise, they finished them in peace! Now that's a big change in them, being able to eat a piece of bone together!


P. S. So far, I'm very happy with their overall progress they achieved, in just under 2 weeks...:))))